Monday, January 25, 2010

Charlie Brown Christmas Tree

As they got rid of the Christmas markets and the beautiful tree, it took a bit of a Schultz turn..
Before::


After::

Goal:: finish blog before leaving Prague... Status:: Failed.

So as I write this, I'm sitting in my room listening to Frank Sinatra. My view is no longer of the beautiful Prague skyline. In fact, that view seems like a distant dream. But I'll get to this later.
There is little to still fill you in on during the period of time that I failed to live up to my obligation of updating this blog. And so I will do so quickly.
After welcoming in the new year, I traveled to Mnichovice for the third time to visit Pavel and Marcela. To the great luck of mom and myself, though, we also had a chance to meet Eva and Milan and their new baby boy, Antonin. After spending most of the day with Pavel, Marcela, and Evichka, we made the short hike up the hill to Milada's old house, where Eva and Milan live. The weekend proved to be family filled when we met up with Svatopluk and Vlasta the next day for dinner. And what amazing people they all were. It was incredible to see Pavel and Marcela again, as well as meeting 5 new people!

Evy
She is an absolute riot.
Visiting Eva a Milan
Dinner with Svata a Vlasta




The VR signs are still present in some places.

Friday, January 15, 2010

Fastforward to the present day

Just for one post, I will update you to my "round 3!" Tonight, I did the unthinkable..I ventured out after 8 pm..completely alone. It's not that I avoided going out at night for safety reasons..oh no..it's just weird to imagine going out alone...at night. For me, it's one thing to go to a cafe and read, or out to dinner alone. But when friends back home started saying, "you should go to the bars during these 2 weeks," my mind automatically said..no, no, no. Maybe that's just me though (the girl that decided to go to freshman homecoming alone..just cause I could..).
But, I completely forgot about the relaxed, calm, and yet vibrant atmosphere that is a jazz lounge. Well, either way, I had an absolutely incredible time.
I went to a small jazz club called U Staré Paní ("At the Old Lady"). I never would have thought about going out at night during my alone time either, if Chad hadn't put the idea in my head. He mentioned to me that a friend of his would be playing at this jazz lounge tonight, and so I went. And I'm so glad I did. I introduced myself to Karel and Marie, Chad's friends. I had the first full conversation since my mom left (apart from the short return by my suite-mate, Alex, before she moved to Spain.) And I enjoyed the music immensely. Karel and Marie, were extremely warm and inviting people and the whole experience worked out!
I left, with a spring in my step and a slight need to wander: so I did.
It's amazing what happens when you go slightly out of your comfort zone, even if the feat isn't difficult.





Dear permanent headache, Please make yourself less permanent. Thanks. Love, Manda

I am determined to get everything caught back up to date...at least before I leave the country for good and this blog ceases to have a purpose. Although, I have determined that I rather like blogging. Maybe I'll start a different one. A day in the life of Amanda. Oh yeah...that'd be exciting....

New Year's Eve was altogether too much fun. Back in the states, it becomes a holiday of drinking for many. Ok, maybe that's a universal thing. But there's a big difference when you can go out without worrying about being on the road with drunk drivers. Thank goodness for public transit.
The night was absolutely chaotic, and a tad humorous from the standpoint of being amongst thousands of drunken, screaming people, while being completely sober yourself.
People were setting off fireworks everywhere, usually without any consideration to the proximity of other people to them.  Apparently the number of accidents seems to increase with every year.
But aside from the danger factor, the scene was magical. Prague is magical to begin with, but add a bunch of glowing lights being set off from random places, and you've just tripled the "wow" factor.
Once midnight hit, we were standing on the bridge right near my faculty building.  That was when the chaos started. Fireworks from every direction. Front, back, side..the middle of the street right in front of you, etc.
Me, being the worry-wart that I am, was a little concerned for the safety of the drivers that drove past/over the fireworks right before or after they were being set off in the middle of the street. And by the time the fireworks had been going on for 5 minutes, Prague had disappeared to the smoggy fog that was the residue from the explosions.
It was absolutely incredible. The whole night was an unforgettable celebration of the last amazing year, and the future that this year has to hold. So I guess we'll find out what has yet to unfold.. :]


Mom and I took some time to wander Mala Strana as well



Right in the middle of the street.

Dear Czech police, Thank you for protecting the drunk people from the tram. Or..thank you for protecting the tram from the drunk people?? Either way, you definitely helped the woman standing in the middle of the tram tracks talking to her daughter to see the oncoming danger..

World travelers that we are..

..we took a 4 hour train ride to the beautiful village of, Český Krumlov. I had gone there once before, but in very different conditions. Last time I was there, it was sunny, warm, and invaded by tourists. This time around it was cold, icy, and abandoned. And you wanna know something? It was equally pretty both times...just in different ways.
Český Krumlov is located in southern Bohemia. Since it was a tad farther, mom and I chose to make it an overnight trip. The town has attracted a lot of tourists in recent years, but for good reason. It is easily (probably..) one of the prettiest towns in the world. After all, as Kerry once said, "I love going off the beaten path, but it's true that things become touristy for a reason."
Now, since we decided to take our time and spend an extra day there (so as to not feel rushed), it only made sense to get up at 4:30 am to catch the train there. (Right?) But it added something more. It meant that amazing feeling of getting on a train when it's pitch-black, falling fast asleep, and then waking up to the sun rising over the Czech countryside. I'm ok with that.
We booked a room at the hostel Merlin since it was only about $12 a night and it worked out so well. All we really needed was a heater, some beds, a bathroom, and a shelter from wind. They added a small Christmas tree in the hallway along with the necessities as well.
Well, in our crazy traveling, we forgot to eat more than a couple rohliky on the train, so we stopped for lunch at a small restaurant. As we walked in, they greeted us in English. One thing I (and mom) have made very sure to do, is to always reply in Czech, even if they intiate the English. It's only fair that you attempt to get by on as much as you know...and then, when it falters, you can fall back on the fact that they do speak your native language. Not to mention, after we spoke Czech, we got sent the "Czech waiter." You know: kind of burly, seemingly void of emotions, etc. A very stereotypical waiter in the CR. The food was incredible and I lucked out by choosing the duck/ham/pork/sauerkraut/bramborak plate.
Apart from that, our day was just filled with wandering (and ducking into random shops when we got too frozen.)
Overall, we also learned 2 major lessons:
1. When sitting in the cafe, and you order horká čokoláda (hot chocolate) and the waiter asks you if you want it "s šlehačkou", nod and say "ano." Even if you don't remember what that is at the moment. Note to self: when you finally remember what "šlehačka" is, don't loudly exclaim "whipped cream!!"
It doesn't give off a Czech persona....
2. If the returning train to Prague, does not match the time that you wrote down, it is not the correct train. In fact..it is very possibly going a different route. Case and point: (I drew you something)

The train ride was beautiful though. And it was only an extra 45 minutes or so. The conductor didn't make us pay extra, and mom saw rocks (and other pretty stuff!) so I'd say, sometimes, it is completely worth it to mess up.
And now that I have sufficiently shared my Český Krumlov shortcomings with you: here's some pictures!




Be grumpy like the waiter.

Poor sheep..




Thursday, January 14, 2010

Only in the Czech Republic...

....Little kids feeding swarms of ducks in a mostly frozen pond.
Kids leave.
10 minutes later:
Man feeds duck.
Man slowly leads duck up the hill with bread.
Man catches duck.
Man kills duck.
MMM. dinner.

Man goes for duck number 2.


I don't think you understand how traumatized I am from the death of animals that I've seen in a span of a week. I have discovered one way in which I am ignorant: I DON'T EVER want to know where my food comes from.

Mom and I traveled to Tábor: the home of our ancestors. If you remember, Beth and I made the first trip to the town when she visited in November. Mom and I revisited Klokoty this time around. This is the church that my great-great-grandparents were married in. In addition, we were also able to find the house that they raised their daughter in before moving to the states. The history that we were stepping on was beyond words. We got lucky, by picking one of the nicest days in weeks. The weather wasn't cold, and it wasn't icy or snowy. Thank god, since Klokoty is a pilgrimage church. One bad ice patch and you'd find yourself at the bottom of a mountain that you don't want to be at the bottom of...

The only "falter" of the day was our attempt to order from a Czech menu when none of the food was recognizable. Normally, we are able to recognize at least three quarters of a menu. Things like Svíčková, kuřeci, šunka, etc. are all recognizable foods. Yet in our attempt to appear Czech (and due to the fact that we didn't see the English menu on the table..) we tried to order things we weren't completely sure about. Joke was on us.
I ended up with spicy chicken wings. Mom ended up with fried pork knuckles.
Thank goodness the food was good.
Lucky people that you are, I will now force you to look at 80 bazillion pictures I took in Tábor.




The street that my great-grandmother used to live on.


Our family house in Tábor!!!!!

Klokoty

Pilgrimag-ing

Klokoty

Klokoty. Mom made me be shorter than her.


I figured the English menu needed to be photographed....

Isn't she pretty?? :)




Remember those ducks I was talking about....?

Have yourself a Vesele Vanoce



Christmas proved to be fairly uneventful. Mom and I watched the classic Christmas movies (It's a Wonderful Life, White Christmas, the animated version of the Grinch, etc.) and spent all day in the Christmas markets. We also ate jatrovymy knedlíčky polévka (liver dumpling soup!) at U Dvou Koček. The waiter brought us the bill without us asking and then stood there waiting for us to pay...very un-Czech. Not only that, but the gesture made me fear going back to the states where you are rushed out of a restaurant after eating. I have become quite accustomed to sitting around for an hour or so after the meal and not having anyone come by to bother your conversation.
The previous day/night we went to Christmas Eve midnight mass at Svaty Salvator across from Karlova Most. The church was cold and had heated seats that made your butt feel like it was on fire. I won't even go into detail about the number of people that would walk in during service with cameras just to take flash pictures before leaving in the middle of mass..tourists...
Since everything was closed Christmas Eve (it's Czech tradition to have big celebrations that night as Christmas day itself is less of a big deal) we decided to go see a string quartet perform at the oldest church in Prague, Svaty Martina (Saint Martin). We, strangely, ran into Nancy and Jordan on Národní Třída sometime in the morning and then later ran into my friend, Kaylyn, at Kavárna Slavia (I didn't know she was still in Prague!). I quickly remarked to mom, "who else is hiding nearby??"

Christmas itself felt..un-Christmaslike. In my house, Christmas is ALL about family. 100%. So to be away from them, was really difficult, but thanks to skype, we were able to talk to them. The one main perk to the arrival of Christmas day was the removal of the carp-killing stations.
Since Czech families traditionally eat carp on Christmas eve, the city sets up carp stations ALL over the streets. It was fine walking by the first couple times: seeing the fish jump and swim, and people point out which one they wanted. It was NOT fine when we walked by just as a woman beat a fish senseless with a bat. It quickly lost it's cool factor after that...


Wednesday, January 13, 2010

Climbing a mountain

Well not quite..but with the cold and snow, it sure as heck felt like it.
As mentioned in the last blog, Susan and I made plans to take mom and Jordan to Vyšehrad. It was a beautiful day, but just a tad..cold..
We wandered a lot. Seems to be a common theme, huh?


Susan and Jordan looking at the oldest rotunda (in the Czech Republic? the world? the details are a little blurry...)




Something very interesting over there...

Jordan was over the moon to be at Dvořák's tomb. "Holy cripes!! He's like..right there!!!"


Which city are we in again?

Praha: Round 2

I have three different "rounds" in Prague during my 5 months here:
1. Time with friends. Time that I took classes. Time to be a student at Karlova Univerzita.
2. Time with mom. Time to play tourist and tour guide.
3. Time by myself. Time to reflect. Time to spend writing in cafes and seeing what I have yet to see.

As I write this, I am already half done with Round 3, but due to my inability to update the blog in a timely manner, I must go back to Round 2. Fill you in on some of the details. ;]
Where to start....

Mom helped me through the rough patch that was my friends' departures. 'Twas an emotional day, but through a few pep-talks and some serious Christmas music listening, the world still seemed as bright.
Sunday, I dragged her to Unitaria with me for a service of Christmas music. We then joined Susan and Nancy for dinner at Kabul, an Afghani restaurant in the back streets of Prague, afterwards. We talked for a long time and I got to know these two women that I had only met a few weeks before. Nancy is an ex-Carthage professor that moved to Prague with her partner, Susan. Both women are from Chicago and have truly remarkable life stories. Dinner was a blast, and Susan and mom became quick friends over a common love: rocks..
Susan and I made plans for later that week to show Vyšehrad to mom and Susan's son, Jordan. Jordan was visiting for the Christmas season before returning to the states with Susan and Nancy. They had to return since their Schengen days were expiring and they are still waiting to hear about their visas. Good luck ladies!


Me, Susan, and Nancy at Unitaria!

Mom and I mostly wandered the city, despite the freezing cold conditions that we were hit with.  We hit every single Christmas market possible and climbed to the top of the Old Town Hall tower.
Along with all of that, we spent a day exploring the Jewish Quarter. Moving from synagogue to synagogue, we tried to keep warm from the brutal weather. 
I took mom past all the major parts of Prague: Lennon wall, Mala Strana, Communist monument, Staromestska, Vaclavske Namesti, etc.etc.etc.
We ate Palačinky and Trdelniky constantly. We watched the traditional dancers and singers in the Vánoce Trhy. We soaked up the sounds, smells, and overall soul of Prague.
And it was incredible.


Our somewhat comical Christmas tree: sorry bout the poor photo quality....